As a fashion content writer I am particularly interested in the return of established British fashion houses to London Fashion Week and Mulberry’s latest chapter is one of the most notable. The heritage brand returned to the London runway with Christopher Kane at the helm of its women’s ready-to-wear direction. His first collection, presented for Spring/Summer 2027, marries Mulberry’s British heritage with Kane’s experimental approach to fashion.
What caught my eye was how Kane approached Mulberry’s history, not just regurgitating its past. Instead, he took familiar brand elements and reinterpreted them as modern fashion. The collection investigates various facets of British culture, combining conventional references with more modern and playful concepts. This gives Mulberry a new lease of life, whilst allowing the collection to keep identifiable elements of the house.
Heritage of Mulberry for Modern Fashion
One of the strongest things about the collection is the way Kane has worked with Mulberry’s archives. The designer looked back to the brand’s Somerset beginnings and took inspiration from historical details for new clothing and accessories. The new collection reworks elements such as the Mulberry tree logo, broderie anglaise and older rugby-inspired designs.
The iconic Bayswater bag also had its part to play. Kane did not use the bag as an accessory, but drew inspiration from its familiar shapes and details for clothing. The visual identity of Bayswater was translated into ready-to-wear pieces with cut-out designs, leather panels and graphic silhouettes. This demonstrates how an established fashion icon can influence a whole collection, not just the handbags.
There were also checks, oversized shirts, coats and other British-inspired pieces sprinkled throughout the collection. Kane also added in more surprising elements, like transparent outerwear and graphic shapes. This mix makes the collection feel connected to Mulberry’s past with a more current fashion direction for me.
Leather remains in the spotlight
Leather is still one of the most identifiable materials at Mulberry and Kane made it a big part of his debut. Accessories on the runway included belts, harness-inspired details and an array of bag shapes, with leather dresses, skirts, coats and matching pieces set against them.
The collection also showed how Mulberry could step out of its traditional status as a leather goods brand. Kane’s accessories in clothing, by their visual language, created a more intimate relation between the fashion and the craftsmanship of the house. The end result is a collection that feels more streamlined and contemporary but still has recognizable Mulberry detail.
I find Christopher Kane’s first Mulberry collection interesting as a fashion content writer because it doesn’t completely separate heritage and modern design. Instead, the two ideas are complementary. The foundation of Mulberry, the Britishness, archive pieces, and leather craftsmanship, Kane adds his own experimental style to create something new.
This is also a significant comeback to ready-to-wear for Mulberry. The brand exited the category in 2020 and Kane shuttered his eponymous label in 2023. Thus his appointment as Mulberry’s creative director of women’s ready-to-wear marks a significant new chapter for both the designer and the fashion house.
In general terms I see Kane’s debut for Mulberry as a nexus point between British fashion heritage and a more contemporary design language. The collection is not simply about looking back, but uses familiar Mulberry codes to launch new ideas. It’ll be interesting to see where this creative direction goes as the new ready-to-wear line hits stores and becomes part of Mulberry’s larger identity.