InstagramPinterestFacebookEmail

How The Shards Brings ’80s Fashion Back Into Focus

As a fashion content writer, I find The Shards very interesting and someone who likes to explore how clothing reflects a certain time and society. The series takes viewers back to Los Angeles in 1981, yet the series’ fashion is equally as significant as its gloomy tale. From the precise tailoring to vintage pieces, the clothing helps define the mood of the people and the world they live in.

Based on the novel by Bret Easton Ellis, The Shards follows a group of privileged high schoolers whose seemingly perfect lives take a sinister turn as secrets, obsession and violence begin to surface. The cast also includes Kaia Gerber, Homer Gere, Evan Rachel Wood and Jordan Roth with Ryan Murphy as executive producer. For me, one of the most intriguing things about the series is how closely the attire reflects the early ’80s.

An Itty-Bitty 80’s Look

What I initially notice is how well everything seems to fit. Shirts are tucked in, pants are belted and the shapes are close to the body. At first, the protagonists are dressed in a polished preppy way, with polo shirts, Oxford shirts and classic pieces that speak to their wealthy California surroundings.

Courtesy of FX.

Nite looks are so much more glamorous. Metallic heels, wrap dresses, halter tops, disco-inspired trousers, cocktail watches, statement jewellery and shorter hemlines. The costume team opted for lesser heels instead than really high stilettos, yet they still gave the ensembles a confident and attractive shape.

I think this is a good reminder to me that 80s fashion wasn’t all big clothes and bright colours. Fitted shapes, polished details and carefully selected accessories were very much stressed.

Vintage Fashion Adds Realism to the Story

One of the strongest points of the wardrobe is the usage of authentic vintage apparel. Costume designers Lou Eyrich and Joshua Marsh concentrated on attire from about 1978 to 1981, ensuring that the characters looked as if they belonged to the era rather than just sporting current clothes affected by the ’80s.

Courtesy of FX.

The wardrobe features vintage satin jumpsuits, silk pyjamas, dancewear, high-waisted trousers and other period pieces. For me as a spectator, and as someone who studies fashion history, this attention to detail makes the fashion feel more believable.

The result is a wardrobe that does more than evoke a particular era. It gives each character a visual identity.”

The Revealing Clothes of the Characters

I also enjoy how the garments are used to express personality.

Kaia Gerber’s character, Susan, wears a unique white lace-collar shirt that suits her more innocent and well-behaved image. Robert, however, wears leather trousers to school, giving him an immediate rebellious edge.

Evan Rachel Wood’s Liz speaks a very other fashion language. Her outfit is stocked with antique Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel, a nod to the older, glamorous aspect of early ’80s fashion. Her clothes are more grown-up and elegant than the teenage characters.

Courtesy of FX.

Those contrasts are what make costume design so important in fashion-driven narrative. Sometimes a persona doesn’t need to tell you who they are; their clothing can accomplish that work.

The Impact of Jordan Roth’s New Wave

Another look that caught my eye was in the character of Steven Reinhardt, played by Jordan Roth. His clothing is a step away from typical preppy into something more adventurous.

His look features jumpsuits and new-wave items, with nods to designers like Claude Montana and Yves Saint Laurent. And the David Bowie-inspired hairdo is another flourish to the look.

It’s one of the most memorable fashion directions in the series, because it portrays another side of 1981. The early 80s weren’t only about standard prep or beautiful eveningwear. There was a new wave, bolder silhouettes, and more experimental fashion was also gaining ground.

Big Shoulders, Defined Waistlines & Statement Shoes

The Shards fashion formula is strong shoulders, defined waists and fantastic shoes. If I had to characterise it in a few words, I would.

Courtesy of FX.

That blend reflects something crucial about early 80s fashion. The clothes could be strong without becoming all-out huge. Structured shoulders for a stronger shape, and tailored waists for a sharp and polished silhouette.”

The shoes and accessories also play a vital role. Signet rings, sculptural earrings, small bags and timepieces assist complete the looks without detracting from the primary clothes.

Colours Get Darker and Bolder

Another detail I found interesting is the way colour evolves over the series. The characters are initially seen in a restrained palette of navy, white and grey.

As the plot gets more chaotic, brighter colours come to the fore, including teal, oxblood, azure, burgundy, and red. I think this is more than just a change in styling. The colours serve to visually convey the building tension and emotional disorder in the plot.

From a fashion viewpoint, that is what makes The Shards so fascinating. The outfit is not there just to make the characters seem stylish. It gets interwoven with the tale.

My Opinion on The Shards Fashion

I’m a fashion content writer, so I’m always intrigued when a show employs apparel to develop its universe, rather than treating fashion as a decorative afterthought. The Shards hits the mark here, with a mash-up of real vintage pieces, early ’80s styles, luxe couture and character-specific styling.

What I love the most is the detail. From the fitted shirts and sculpted shoulders to the vintage accessories and shifting colour palette, nearly every fashion decision feels deliberate.

If retro fashion, costume design, or the revival of ’80s-inspired style are your thing, The Shards is worth watching for the story, but also the clothing. It’s a fascinating glimpse at how fashion can represent a certain era in history, and also say something about the people who wear it.

Reference: ELLE — “Decoding the ’80s-Fueled Fashion of The Shards”

Stay in the know

Get the latest posts, style guides and curated updates straight to your inbox.